Traces of the ancient city of Puteoli, as Pozzuoli was called,
are ubiquitous. The Nero-Flavian amphitheater (tel. +39.081.5266007)
is located in the hillier region, outside the port proper, in
the Via Terracciano. Close by, the walls of the baths of Neptune
are striking, though to keep them preserved, the visitor must
view them from a distance. The same is true for the necropolis
in the Via Celle and the ancient marketplace, or macellum, in
the port area. The ruins of the sea-sunken portion of Puteoli,
known as the portus Julus, can be viewed by booking a glass-bottom
boat tour. Trips depart on Saturdays and Sundays (contact the
Eliseo Association, tel. + 39.081.5265780). One can also enjoy
guided underwater diving all year-round. (Contact the Calypso
Diving Center, tel. +39.081.8662305.) To learn more about this
ancient port, invest in a copy of Puteoli, a complete research
text about the archaeological sites of the ancient Roman colony,
published by the Banco di Napoli (contact the Centro Studi Banco
di Napoli, tel. +39.081.7911111).
Visiting
the Phlegraean Fields
Dotted with craters, lakes,
volcanic activity and archaeological sites, this fertile volcanic
region is named for ancient Phlegra, in Macedonia, where, Greek
and Roman mythology has it, great battles between the giants
and the gods took place. Today the Archaeological Museum of
the Phlegraean Fields is housed in the 16th century Baia Castle.
On the coast west of Pozzuoli, it was built on the ruins of
the Roman palace of the Caesars (tel. +39.081.5233797; closed
Mondays).
All that remains of ancient
Baia, once famous for villas of emperors and patricians, are
the ruins of the baths (35 Via Fusaro; tel. +39.081.8687592).
The rest, mostly submerged under the sea, makes for a spectacular
sightseeing tour. Excursions to the underwater ruins in the
area are organized by the Misenum Association (tel. +39.081.5233977).
Only 4 miles from Pozzuoli lies an ancient Greek archaeological
park, notable for the cave where the Sybil pronounced her
oracles, as well as for the ruins of the Temple of Apollo
(tel. +39.081.8543060). The museums and archaeological sites
in the area are open daily from 9 am to one hour before sunset;
entrance fee is about 2 euros.